If you live in North America and venture beyond your front porch, you’re at risk of contracting poison ivy. Thankfully, by learning to recognize this dangerous plant, you can limit the likelihood of developing a nasty rash.

Staying out of parks and forests does not guarantee your safety. Although poison ivy grows in wooded areas throughout most of the United States and Canada, it also lurks in backyards, hedges, weed patches, and gardens. Don’t make the mistake of thinking it always appears as an ivy. The plant also grows as a climbing vine, a bush, or a ground cover. Well-established vines on trees may resemble old grape vines or small tree limbs.

In the spring the leaves may be light green or reddish. In the summer they turn a dark green, then to red, orange, or yellow in the fall. The green summer leaves may have a shiny or waxed appearance, which fades in autumn. Leafless plants are difficult to identify, but also contain the oil that causes the rash.

The edges of the leaves may be smooth or slightly jagged. The vine is sometimes hairy and has no thorns. From May to July tiny whitish flowers may adorn the plant, maturing to berry-like fruits by late summer.

The arrangement of leaflets is how poison ivy is usually identified: clusters of three leaves, with the middle leaf on a slightly longer stem. Although other plants have a similar pattern, remember, “Leaves of three, let it be” and “Side leaflets like mittens, will itch like the dickens.”

As for the rash, it can appear from a day to a week or so after exposure to the plant. Any rash that occurs within minutes to a few hours after exposure to a plant is very unlikely to be poison ivy (hence the medical name, delayed hypersensitivity reaction). (However, other types of allergic reactions may occur to any plant.) Generally speaking, it takes the human body 24 hours or more to respond to the urushiol oil which causes typical poison ivy.

The first sign of poison ivy dermatitis is usually erythema (redness) in the area of exposure. Clusters of red dots or streaks are typical. On the arms and legs this is usually from being brushed by the plant. On the neck or face it commonly occurs from having the plant oil on the hands and then wiping another body part. Interestingly, the palm surface of the hands rarely develop the poison ivy rash. In fact, in 25 years of medicine I can’t remember seeing a case.

The next stage is that of small blisters, which may enlarge, depending on your degree of allergy and amount of exposure. Sometimes the blisters burst, but this does not cause poison ivy to spread. Once the oil is off your skin (after a shower) poison ivy cannot be transmitted. Sometimes it looks like the rash has been spread from one body part to another, but this is actually due to earlier contact with the plant. Some areas of skin simply take longer to develop the rash.

Burning poison ivy, even the dry leaves and vines, is especially inadvisable. The smoke can carry the oil to your face, your eyes, and your lungs, producing severe symptoms. This occurs commonly at camp fires and when burning brush. Eating poison ivy may cause your internal organs to swell, producing a potentially fatal reaction. (Of course, in decades of medicine, I’ve never seen a person who’s eaten poison ivy.)

Learn to recognize the plant, avoid anything that resembles poison ivy, and the odds of remaining rash- and itch-free are in your favor.

Copyright 2010 Cynthia J. Koelker, MD

Source by Cynthia Koelker

Let’s just say you notice that your landscape is not quite as it should be. After you get done with all your planting (of course AFTER you plant,) you notice that some of your trees, for example, simply do not belong where they are. You realize that, to be perfect, they should be moved a few feet this way, or a couple feet that way, or to the other side of the flower bed, etc. What you need to do to perfect your beautiful landscape is transplant. Let me assure you, transplanting in regards to landscaping clearly has nothing to do with the kind of transplanting that John Q was after. Well, actually, it is similar, but the object being transplanted in this case is being transplanted to save that object, not to save the object in which you wish to transplant it. Regarding landscaping, transplanting simply means digging up a plant from where it is not wanted and replanting it in a place where it is wanted. This could be done for the health of the plant, or simply for the aesthetic value of your landscape.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that transplanting a plant is quite similar to performing surgery on a person. If the person is under anesthesia, the surgery will not cause any pain; but if that person is awake and is aware of what is going on, you can bet anything that this poor fellow will be in more pain than baseball purists watching Barry Bonds. Plants are very similar to people in this regard. Transplanting a plant will cause the plant to suffer tremendously unless it is dormant. It will feel less and less suffering the more dormant it is. On the contrary, if the tree is alive and well and in full bloom when you transplant it, it is comparable to performing surgery on a person who is awake.

The very beginning of spring is a good time to transplant as long as the plant you wish to transplant is still dormant. As long as the plant is still sleeping, transplanting will not be traumatic for it. Being sure that the plant is dormant is the most important thing to be sure of when transplanting. Dormancy begins with the first good freeze and continues until the weather warms up.

Transplanting is safe to do until the plant starts to leaf out. Even if you begin to notice some green buds, transplanting is still usually okay as long as the plant has not started to leaf out. If the plant started to leaf out already, you must wait until the first freeze to ensure dormancy and then transplant.

It is very important to keep the plant out of the earth for as short a time as possible. It is not exactly the same, but it is similar to taking a fish out of the water: While it is clearly not the best thing for it, it is not detrimental unless it is for an extended period of time. You should also try to keep the roots damp while they are out of the ground.

It is best to dig a ball of earth with the roots when you transplant. If this is not possible, it is vital that you dig up enough of the roots to allow the plant to revitalize when you replant it. The basic rule for how much of the roots you need to dig up is usually about one foot of root-ball for every inch of the plant’s diameter. If the plant is three inches thick, the root-ball should be about three feet across.

If the roots are bigger than necessary, do not be concerned about what will happen to your plant if you prune the roots. This is often times actually quite beneficial for the plant, since the roots will then grow even stronger. Basically, the roots, when severed, grow lateral roots which are better at soaking up water and nutrients. There are even machines that are made for the purpose of pruning roots. There is a device that could be attached to a tractor which undercuts the roots, thereby forcing the roots to create more lateral roots. Root pruning, like transplanting, should only be done when the plant is dormant.

Root pruning is really a great method to prolong the life of your plants which predates tractors. Before tractors were as common as celebrities in rehab, farmers would thrust a spade into the ground around the plants. This would be done during dormancy if a plant was not doing well, or just to strengthen a plant. The spade would sever the roots creating more lateral roots. Now tractors are used, but it is the same thing with the same goal.

Source by Joe Knapp

There are several benefits to having plants in your freshwater aquarium. Plants add oxygen to your fish tank and also act as biological supplementary filters that assist in keeping your aquarium clean. In turn, fish provide carbon dioxide and nutrients to the plants. Live aquatic plants are good for you too – they look great and make your aquarium look more like a natural habitat. Between making you, the fish, and the plants happy and healthy, it is a triple win situation!

Several factors apply when researching plant possibilities:

One: water parameters – Water parameters are specific levels of things in water, such as temperature and pH. When water has a lot of mineral content, it is said to be hard.

Two: Substrate – Substrate is the surface a plant or animal lives on. (Are you planting in rocks, gravel or dirt? Does the plant float like a lily pad?)

Three: Lighting – Even aquatic plants need light to grow.

Four: Fish Compatibility – If you have fish that are herbivores, for example, consider your ferns and grasses as good as salad.

The best plants are flexible in all of the above factors except the last. There are seven aquatic plant species that are hardy and also attractive to stick in your aquarium:

One: Java Ferns – (Microsorium pteropus). Java ferns tend to be around eight inches tall with bushy with tall spade-shaped leaves. They grow well in waters with a pH level between 5.5-7.5 and in temperatures between 68-82 degrees Fahrenheit. They have the potential to grow even in low-lit tanks and require a water hardness of between 2-15 degrees. Java Ferns grow best when tied to floating driftwood rather than planting their roots.

Two: Amazon Sword – (Echinodorus amazonicus). Amazon Sword grow to be 20 inches tall and have wide green leaves that fan out. They will grow best in a tank with a pH level ranging from 6.5-7.5. They also require the water’s temperature to be regulated between 72-82 degrees. With regards to lighting, provide 50 watts for every 25 gallons of water. They require the same water hardness as Java Ferns and should be planted in loose substrate and supplemented with iron fertilizer.

Three: Argentine Sword – (Echinodorus argentinensis). Argentine Swords grow as tall as 18 inches and have long, thin stems. They thrive in water temperature of 60-77 degrees and require soft water hardness. Otherwise their specific care needs are identical to that of the Amazon sword.

Four: Hygrophila Polysperma – Hygrophila Polysperma are tall, standing at 24 inches. They grow in bunches and have small reddish or green leaves. The tank should have a pH level between 6.5-8 and a temperature between 68-85 degrees. The lighting and water hardness needs are the same as the Sword plants. Trim the Hygrophila Polysperma every so often, as they tend to branch out. Because of this it may be wise to place them in the center of the tank and back, so they have room to grow.

Five: Umbrella Plant – (Spathiphyllum wallisii). Umbrella plants can be anywhere between 8-12 inches tall. They have tall, thin stems with small leaves at the top of each stem that branch out into a star shape. They are high-maintenance plants and need a pH level between 5-7 and a temperature between 72-78 degrees. They need intense light to grow and a water hardness measuring between 4-12 degrees. Umbrella plants are not actually aquatic plants and will die if submerged completely in water. You can still have this gorgeous greenery as a part of your fish’s habitat-Just grow the plant on the surface and submerge the roots below.

Six: Vallisneria spiralis – This looks like grass and grows to 24 inches. It needs a ph level between 6.5-7.5 and a water temperature between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit. It should have 50 watts of light for every 50 gallons of water and the water should have a hardness between 5-15 degrees. Vallisneria spiralis are good plants for beginning aquarists as they have a wide range of water parameter needs. These plants look best along the sides or in the back of your aquarium.

Seven: Anubias Barteri – Anubias Barteri are wide plants with wide green leaves that grow as tall as 16 inches. The water temperature should be regulated between 72-82 degrees with a pH level ranging only from 6.5-7.5. These are also aquatic divas, insisting on moderate lighting and a water hardness of 8 degrees. They grow best with CO2 fertilization.

All of the plants discussed in this article look great in an aquarium. The first three are the best to get if you are a novice because of their flexible needs. But as always, do your research before buying.

Source by Garry-Ian Macdonald

Introduction

Rabbiteye varieties (Vaccinium ashei), are resident to the southeastern United States. Florida is inhabited with at least 8 wild blueberry species. Rabbiteye plants are more vigorous, easier to be cared for and live longer, than the majority of southern variety. . They can handle drought superior to highbush blueberries. They can grow adequately in soils with a lower amount of organic material in them. Rabbiteye blueberries is usually firmer than southern varieties with thicker skin. The seeds tend to be somewhat more distinct than highbush. Their after harvest shelf life is exceptional and usually superior to highbush.

It is not uncommon to have severe crop losses due freezes in the spring. This is especially true for early season varieties which blossom before mid-season and late-season rabbiteyes. For u-pick growers and home gardeners, late flowering plants such as Brightwell and Powderblue usually make produce crops without freeze safeguard in many locations.

Rabbiteye blueberry plants need cross-pollination with other rabbiteye varieties to produce crops. That is, they are not self pollinating. Therefore, more than one variety is needed to insure cross-pollination.

In many cases, rabbiteye can be machine harvested for the local market. Since Blueberries of highbush and rabbiteye blueberries are sufficiently alike, most consumers do not notice the difference between the two varieties. Rabbiteyes are generally more suitable for u-pick and selling locally while southern highbush are more suitable for shipment. Blueberries varieties can be separated into three broad categories early season mid-season, and late-season. U-pick growers and home gardeners who do not need an early ripening variety will find that mid-season and late-season varieties are more dependable in producing blueberries.

Five popular rabbiteye varieties

Pest of rabbiteye blueberries

A gall midge, is a newly discovered pest of rabbiteye blueberries in the southeastern US. Midge larvae feed inside and destroy flower buds the resultant is low yields. Rabbiteye blueberry cultivars differ very much in their resistance to blueberry gall midge infestation. Powderblue and Brightwell are highly resistant to flower bud damage; Climax, and Tifblue are moderately susceptible; and Premier is highly susceptible. Most southern highbush blueberry cultivars are highly resistant to flower bud damage.

Brightwell was released by the University of Georgia in 1983. It is a rabbiteye type variety from the Coastal Plains Experiment Station in Tifton, GA. It is an upright vigorous plant and an exceptional consistent producer. It is early to mid-season ripening and its fruit is intermediate to large with a little dry scar. It is sweet in flavor and may be mechanically harvested for the processed or fresh market. The blueberry quality is firm with little to no picking scar. It is thought by some to be among the top rabbiteye varieties currently available. The fruit ripens after Climax. The height of a mature bush is 8-12 feet, tall and spreading. Yields of 8-14 pounds per bush are produced at maturity. It is a highly productive plant. It has a chilling requirement estimated to be 350 to 400 chill hours. Its hardiness zone is 7 to 9.

Climax was released in 1976 from the University of Georgia. It is a rabbiteye type cultivar with early ripening. The height of a mature bush is 6-10 feet, tall and spreading. Yields at maturity of 8 to 22 pounds per bush can be expected. It has concentrated ripening and can be handpicked or machine harvested for the fresh market. The fruit size is medium and has a small scar and sweet flavor. Climax reliably flowers out very much. Harvesting can be by hand or mechanical harvest. Ornamental use of Climax is good. It has a rounded leaf which is dark green in the summer and fiery red in the fall through winter. Climax is one of the leading pollinating cultivars for the Southern blueberry region. It is very vulnerable to the blueberry gall midge. It is estimated to require 450 to 500 chill hours. Its hardiness zone is 7 to 9.

Premier was developed and released from North Carolina State University. It has early to mid-season ripening. It is a vigorous and prolific plant with fruit of excellent flavor, color, and size and the fruit stores very well. It is very productive and canes on young plants may not be able to hold up heavy crop loads. The height of a mature bush is 6-10 feet, tall and upright growth, good foliage. Yields of 8-16 pounds per bush can be expected at maturity. Harvesting is done by hand or mechanical. Marketing should be focused on early U-Pick, commercial fresh market or processed. Ornamental use is good; the bright green foliage during the summer makes the bush stand out. It is highly vulnerable to blueberry gall midge and should not be planted unless you have a spray program to manage this insect. It is estimated to require 550 chill hours. Its hardiness zone is 6 to 9.

Tifblue – The University of Georgia released this cultivar several years ago and it has been planted extensively. It is a rabbiteye variety with mid-season ripening of medium to large light blue fruit. Its blueberry quality is good and firm. The Tiftblue blueberries are among the most flavorful rabbiteye blueberries. Plants are productive, vigorous, hardy, and upright. The height of a mature bush is 8-14 feet, tall and vigorous. Yields on mature plants of 8 to 25 pounds per bush can be expected on irrigated plantings. Harvesting can be done by hand or mechanically. Tifblue rates as the best ornamental for fall leaf color. It was introduced by Otis J. Woodard and the USDA at the University of Georgia Experiment Station in Tifton, GA. The Tifblue Blueberry plant was a breakthrough in hybridizing native cultivars. Those blueberry hybrid cultivars initiated the rise of the dramatic rabbiteye blueberry commercial trade that has developed into a new berry Agricultural bonanza that is reshaping the economy of the South. Tifblue is more cold hardy than most rabbiteye blueberries varieties. For this reason some think it should be the predominant variety in any planting. However It has severe fruit cracking problems during wet weather. It appears that Tifblue may be being replacing by Powder blue. It is estimated to require 550 to 600 chill hours. Its hardiness zone is 7 to 9.

Powder blue is a rabbiteye type with late season ripening. It is vigorous, upright, and straightforward to cultivate. It is extremely productive producing blueberries that are intermediate sized, sky blue, very firm, have a small picking scar, and a long shelf life. Powder blue is at present the primary cultivar for late season rabbiteye in production. It is similar to Tifblue in harvesting characteristics, ripening season, and appearance. Thus the two varieties can be harvested jointly. The plant is pretty energetic, out grows most highbush varieties. Powder blue has elevated yields, rivaling the superior highbush. The blueberries are intermediate in size, quick to pick, sky blue, and resistant to cracking. Powder blue typically cracks less and stays on the plant better than Tifblue. Powder blue is considered an especially dependable producer. It is estimated to require 350 to 400 chill hours. Powder blue is recommended for all rabbiteye plantings where a superior, late season blueberries are desired. Its hardiness zone is 7 to 9.

Source by Harold Stewart

As a member of an indoor plant hire company in Sydney, Australia, we are well aware of the reaction people in offices have to indoor plants. When we freshly install plants the staff’s reaction is nearly always positive and welcoming, and most people would like to have a plant near their desk. The plants appear to improve staff morale. On the other hand, taking away the plants is not popular, and we have been asked at times by management to remove the plants when the staff is not there, to try and limit the impact of their removal on morale.

I suppose it does make sense that people have an affinity with greenery. It is part of nature, and we have lived close to plants for millions of years, it is only recently that we have started to lock ourselves into concrete boxes well away from nature. I suppose, as the saying goes, indoor plants bring the outside… inside.

The other thing we have observed is that people love well cared for and healthy plants, but it depresses them when a plant is not looking its best. We sometimes get calls from concerned clients, worrying about a plant that might have a yellow leaf (and is otherwise quite healthy), but they are worried that it might be dying, and they are concerned. Healthy and well cared for plants improve morale, but sick plants do not. In fact they could depress morale.

Over the years many studies have been carried out that support our observations.

In 1986, a study by Joan Aitken and Rodger Palmer from the University of Missouri found that:

1. The majority of both men and women in the study thought of indoor plants as giving an impression of warmth in the work environment.

2. The effective use of indoor plants may give the impression of a well run organization. The title of their paper was, very appropriately, “The use of plants to promote warmth and caring in a business environment”. Which business would not want to have a well run and caring work place? Well it seems that having well cared for indoor plants helps to achieve that, and the best way to do that is to have a professional indoor plant hire service.

In 1999 the Oxford Brookes University carried out a study entitled “Green Plants for the Feel Good Factor”, which concluded that:

1. People’s perception of an indoor space is more positive in the presence of indoor plants.

2. The indoor space was perceived as more relaxed and less stressful with indoor plants.

3. Both men and women displayed a preference to sit close to plants.

The Green Building Council of Australia awards “Green Star” points for the use of indoor plants in their assessment of the environmental friendliness of a building’s interior, but only if the plants are visible to all work stations. In view of the above studies this seems a very perceptive condition.

One other study merits a mention, and that is a study by Engelbert Kötter working on behalf of the Bavarian State Ministry of Nourishment, Agriculture and Forestry. The study was carried out in 94 offices and over a two year period, and found that:

1. The environment in offices with plants felt fresher, made them feel less stressed, made the working feel more human and in general seem to up-grade their environment

2. Plants in offices improved employee’s perception of their well-being as well as improving the comfort-factor of the offices.

3. With improved conditions and perceptions, office employee’s will enjoy their work situation better; happy employees = more output and happy bosses.

More information on the other benefits of indoor plants in an office environment can be obtained by entering the following search words into Google “benefits of indoor plants”.

Source by Rudy Ursem

Alchemy, organic food, aromatherapy, homeopathy, plant spirit shamanism, nature, healing, shamanism, herbs, herbalism, Thomas bartram, james lovelock, gaia, flower remedies, flower essences

There is one concept that underlies all work in plant spirit shamanism, which is that nature itself will tell you what they are used for and its well-stocked medicine cabinet is right in front of us every day.

Shamans recognise the spiritual powers and qualities of plants in many ways: the colours of their flowers, their perfumes, the shape and form of their leaves, where they are growing and in what ways, the moods they evoke, and the wider geographical, cultural, or mythological landscapes they occupy.

Although such considerations do not play a role in modern medicine (which does not believe in these spiritual powers at all), it was not long ago that we, too, had an understanding that nature is alive and is talking to us in these ways.

The 16th century alchemist and philosopher, Aureolus Phillippus Theophrastus Bombast – better known as Paracelsus – introduced this notion in his Doctrine of Signatures treatise, which proposed that the Creator has placed his seal on plants to indicate their medicinal uses. This was not just idle speculation on the part of Paracelsus; nature itself taught him the truth of it.

“Seeking for truth”, he wrote, “I considered within myself that if there were no teachers of medicine in this world, how would I set to learn the art? Not otherwise than in the great book of nature, written with the finger of God…. The light of nature, and no apothecary’s lamp directed me on my way”.

In his ‘book of nature’, Paracelsus noticed how the qualities of plants so often reflect their appearance – that the seeds of skullcap, for example, resemble small skulls and, it transpires, are effective at curing headache. Similarly, the hollow stalk of garlic resembles the windpipe and is used for throat and bronchial problems. By the same token, willow grows in damp places and will heal rheumatic conditions, caused by a build-up of fluid on the joints.

In fact, as Thomas Bartram remarks in his Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine, “Examples are numerous. It is a curiosity that many liver remedies have yellow flowers, those for the nerves (blue), for the spleen (orange), for the bones (white). Serpentaria (Rauwolfia) resembles a snake and is an old traditional remedy for snake-bite. Herbalism confirms the Doctrine of Signatures”.

Underlying Paracelsus’ treatise was the premise that nature was itself a living organism which must be considered an expression of “the One Life”, and that man and the universe are the same in their essential nature; an idea that was echoed (some would say proved) by Dr James Lovelock, 500 years after Paracelsus, in his Gaia hypothesis on the unity of life. Gaia shows, for example, that the Earth maintains relatively constant conditions in temperature and atmosphere, etc, which defy rational observations and predictive measurements of what ‘ought’ to happen. It is, rather, as if the Earth is a living organism, which consciously takes care of itself.

Because of this “One Life”, Paracelsus held that the inner nature of plants may be discovered by their outer forms or ‘signatures’. He applied this principle to food as well as medicine, remarking that “it is not in the quantity of food but in its quality that resides the Spirit of Life” – a belief familiar to those who choose to eat organic food and share a common concern over Genetically Modified (GM) substitutes that lack ‘life force’, or spirit.

According to Paracelsus, then, the appearance of a plant is the gateway to its spirit or consciousness.

The doctrine of signatures, per se, is not something known to many indigenous shamans, but they understand the principles behind it well enough – that nature is alive, aware, and communicates with us. These principles are not regarded as fanciful at all, but practical and important enough that they can save lives.

I discovered how the doctrine of signatures operates in the Amazon, for example, during an experience with the jergon sacha plant reported by one jungle traveller, who came across this plant accidentally, when walking through the rainforest with the shaman Javier Arevalo, studying the properties of the plants.

“Javier queried why I always walked around with a machete. I jokingly replied ‘it’s against anacondas!’

“He paused for a moment then beckoned me to follow him. A few minutes later we came across this tall-stemmed plant. This was jergon sacha, he said. Javier cut a stem from it and proceeded to whip me around the body, paying most attention to my legs and the soles of my feet. He then said ‘no more problems, you are protected against snakes’. I asked him why this plant was used in this way, and he indicated the pattern on the stem which looks identical to the snakes in the forest.

“Later, on a hunch, we started to investigate this plant and discovered some amazing correspondences. Jergon sacha is widely used as an antidote to snake venom in the Amazon. Referring back to the concept of ‘signatures’, this plant is a clear demonstration of the outer form indicating the inner qualities. Its use is directly related to its physical appearance, the tall stem closely resembling the venomous pit viper known as the Jararaca or Bushmaster, which is indigenous to the Amazon. The Bushmaster, unlike most other snakes, is aggressive and will defend its territory. It can strike in the blink of an eye from 15 feet and is rightly feared and respected.

“Remarkably, jergon sacha does turn out to be a highly effective antidote for the bite when its large root tuber is chopped up and immersed in cold water and then drunk, or placed in a banana leaf and used as a poultice wrapped around the wound.

“Of course, the pragmatic statement here is that it is not possible to store anti-venom vaccines in the rainforest, where there is no refrigeration, so this plant has exceptional life-saving importance. This importance is recognised because the plant itself tells the shaman of its use through the markings on its stems”.

Another illustration of the connection between the form and function of a plant is provided by Artiduro Aro Cardenas, a shaman who works with plant perfumes.

“If the smell of a flower has the power to attract insects or birds, it can also attract luck to people”, he says.

Artiduro makes fragrances which attract customers into a shop, for example (“You just rub the perfume on your face and it brings in the people to your business”), as well as perfumes for love, and others for “flourishing” – growth and success. “I watch what the plant does and if it is attractive [i.e. has the power to attract], I use it to attract. Plants are the forces of nature”, he says. “All I do is give these forces direction”.

Today’s system of homeopathy is also based on the principle of a sentient universe known through its signatures. Hippocrates spoke of a universal law of similia similibus curentur (‘like cures like’), and the modern pioneer of homeopathy, Samuel Hahnemann (1755-1843), showed, through his experiments, that plants contain a healing ‘essence’ or spiritual quality that has an affinity with human beings and acts on them according to the nature of the illness they are suffering from.

No-one really knows how homeopathy works, but the fact that it does seems clear. In 1836, for example, when cholera destroyed many Austrian cities and orthodox medicine was unable to stop its spread, the government turned in desperation to homeopathy and built a quick and crude hospital in which patients could be treated.

The results spoke for themselves: while orthodox hospitals reported deaths in more than 70% of cases, the homeopathic hospital recorded a death rate of just 30%.

Shamans have a simple explanation for this: the homeopathic doctors appealed to and engaged the spirit of the plants to intervene on behalf of their patients and the spirits answered their call.

Source by Ross Heaven

Introduction

Chokeberry plants are very good plants for growing as part of your landscape. The black chokeberry (or Aronia berry plant) was introduced to western gardens as a landscape plant around 1700, and that its value is reflected by its receipt of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Merit in 1972.

Landscape

The ornamental attributes of chokeberry plants include three seasons of interest: white flowers in spring, lustrous green foliage in summer and black bluish fruits in late summer, and bright yellow-orange-red foliage in autumn. There is growing interest in this plant as a multi-season native shrub for landscapes. Its adaptability to a wide range of soil conditions and freedom from major problems makes it a good candidate for wetland reclamation projects, roadside and highway plantings, parking lots and use in your garden and landscape.

The chokeberry or Aronia plant is a native North American plant. However recently this cultivar has been developed in Europe as an orchard fruit, but its attractive value was rapidly realized (as it began obtaining awards for its decorative value.). It is now a favorite ornamental fruiting plant grown the world over. It grows in zones 3-8.it is one of the most ornamental fruiting bushes you can grow.

In spring the Aronia bush is covered with clusters of white, sweet fragrant flowers. They are cold tolerant and avoid most frosts by blooming in late spring. This is followed by gleaming green Aronia berries that turn a dark bluish black in summer into early fall, and fire-red fall foliage. The round, pea-sized fruit can be eaten fresh although it has a distinct taste. It is known for making good and healthful juice that also blends nicely with other fruit juices. Aronia is NOT bothered by pests or diseases. Once established the Aronia bush is highly drought tolerant. It’s very hardy, and the pea sized fruit can be eaten fresh. Fresh chokeberries right from the bush are not particularly tasty raw because of their astringency, some people like them when they are completely ripe. Aronia berries have a unique, satisfying flavor. Their astringency is the awareness that most people first notice. They will make your mouth pucker. The dry, puckering taste comes from being high in tannins. The secret is to freeze the berries before using them to break down the tannins. You must wait until September when they are fully ripe before you pick them. The berries can be used to make jam, syrup, juice, soft spreads, and tea.

One person described it as one of the most attractive fruiting bushes I have ever grown. It is a delight in the garden the whole year. Fragrant flowers, attractive fall foliage, and healthy berries make it an essential plant for astute gardeners.

In the spring clusters of sweet-scented white blooms develop among the shiny green to dark green leaves covering this 3- to 5-foot-tall, 5- to 6-foot-wide bush. The flowers attract bees and butterflies. The long-lasting flowers are enjoyably, and are followed by small berries that steadily mature to dark bluish black. The dark bluish black berries of chokeberry hang in groups of up to 12 berries. They do not require trellising, spraying, or bird netting.

The three most popular varieties are Viking, Nero and Autumn Magic. Viking and Nero were developed in Europe as an orchard fruit and recently shipped back to the United States here they are becoming popular. They are also sold as a favorite ornamental fruiting plant. Autumn Magic was developed in the United States from a seedling in the eastern part of the U.S. The Autumn Magic plant is a commonly sold ornamental cultivar. It was selected for its ornamental characteristic white flowers, glossy green leaves, red-orange fall foliage, and purplish black berries. It does not grow as tall as Viking and Nero. Viking grows to a height at maturity of 5 to 8 ft. Nero grows to a height of 3 to 5 ft.

Health benefits

Aronia melanocarpa is commonly known as chokeberry and has a very nice-looking purplish black color. Interest in Aronia berries has been growing because of its health benefits and as a natural organic food coloring. It has a very stable dark pigment.

Chokeberries belong to that group of purple berries that are in today’s news concerning health and nutrition. It fights cancer and heart disease.

The plant produces dark pigmented berries that are extremely high in antioxidants, even higher than blueberries, higher than pomegranates, and higher than cranberries. Its juice has been reported to help people with heart conditions. Chokeberries have been a significant and important part of the Native American Indian diet since before Europeans came to America. It is high in antioxidants, anthocyanins, phenolic acid, flavonoids, vitamin C and trace minerals.

Summary

Chokeberry plants are very good plants for growing as part of your landscape. The plant produces dark pigmented berries that are extremely high in antioxidants. It has award-winning its decorative value. They are higher than blueberries, higher than cranberries, higher, even, than pomegranates! Its juice has been reported to help people with heart conditions.

Source by Harold Stewart